Do you take care of your skin after a climbing day?

If you want to keep a good functioning skin and especially if your climbing routine is not limited to just rock climbing during the weekends and includes also, for example, a campus board or indoor training, taking care of your skin after climbing is as important as helping your muscle recover by stretching and drinking recovery drinks. Howsoever, the countless grips affects our finger skin, more or less, each time we climb. So what do we do about it and how we can prepare it for the next climbing session?

During our years of climbing and training indoor and outdoor, we’ve tested several hand care product and picked up some really good ones, without which now it would be very unpleasant for our skin. So we only speak from our experience and not a “medical” point of view πŸ™‚


On top of our list of skin care products is Joshua Tree Climbing Salve. We discover it two years ago, when a friend recommend it as being “the best” skin balm and now we can’t agree more.

It’s organic, good for scrapes, and what we love most about it, is the fact that has a fast healing action and you can apply it directly on cuts, split tips, torn calluses, abrasions. Because it’s a bit greasy so it’s slowly absorbed into the skin, we recommend to put it on your hands before bed time. I even used it on dry lips πŸ˜‰  Unfortunately, as far as we know, it can be bought only from U.S.A., but if you have a chance to get it, do that ! One jar of 50 ml is 18.00$ and you will have it for about one year πŸ˜€  WORTH IT !

Before applying any cream, salve or similar products to your skin, make sure your hands are clean and check if you have any big calluses to take care of first. Use some sandpaper to smooth them out. Attention! DO NOT cut them of, you still need some rough skin. If you got split tips, try thinning the skin around it, apply cream and put some tape or plasters while you climb or work, to prevent chalk/dust entering, but keep it uncovered overnight.


Next, check out the Hand Balm made by CHARKO. It’s charko-hand-balma balm, with 100% natural ingredients, kind of similar to the climb On bar, same texture/ smell.

It works really well on split tips, having a thick consistency it sticks into the finger cut, healing it. πŸ˜‰ Every time we double campus, or on dynamic moves on small edges, our fingernails keep pulling away from the skin….and tears begin to flow from our eyes  x_x ….so we “hold” this balm for when that happens. πŸ˜€


rock tecIf you are looking for a less oily hand cream, one option can be the Rock Technologies Revive 5,  which moisturizes skin and can be used all day long.

They say it’s also good for sun burn and insect bites, so now that it’s summer and can have both mosquitoes and burning sun, we can test it:) We discover it by mistake, I think it was in one competition prize bag or something like that, but we didn’t use it for a long time. I had no idea that Rock Technologies make hand cream and we are impressed by how good it is. For us it’s perfect  during winter, when the skin is drier than usual and it craves for deep moister. Knowing that if you use normal hand cream your skin will get to soft for climbing, Revive 5 comes just perfect, leaving your skin nourished  with a much better feel. Most probably you can buy it in Romania, check at the climbing shops.


The last “best friend” product is Antihydral. This is not a hand care product or something that you can find in the shops as a product related to climbing, it’s a cream discovered and tested by climbers in need of a solution for sweaty fingers that inevitably led to thin pink skin and one step back from a climbing day.antihydral

Antihydral is a skin drying agent that seems to be kept secret and only be found by climbers interested in their progress regarding climbing. We’re saying this because, if you make a little research and follow the “work” of pro climbers, you discover little tips that can improve and ease your climbing life.So if, after a climbing session/day, you often found yourself with thinned out pink skin that stings, but your muscles are not fatigued and you still want to keep on climbing the next days, Antihydral is the key.

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The way to apply it is easy. After doing your “good night” routine, just before going to bed, put one drop of cream on each finger tip and spread it, in order to cover the full grip surface of your finger tips and leave it overnight to do its magic. Some say it’s good to do this two nights in a row, but we think it’s not a rule, just do as you feel it’s good for your skin and climbing activity. Try not to overuse Antihydral. If used excessively, the skin can get to dry and torn just like a callus but more painful. So use it wise πŸ™‚ We got it online from Germany, for approx. 7 euro.

Well, this is our “basket” of skin care products for climbing. If you have one too, share it in a comment bellow πŸ˜‰
Eat Sleep Climb Repeat

 

 

 

 

Ozone QC by OCUN

More than half a year ago I started testing a new climbing shoe model, the Ozone QC, made by OCUN. I wanted to use the shoes for a full lifespan, before I say my opinion about them. The time came…

During this climbing period, I used the shoes on different types of rocks like small edges, slabs, tufas, polished footholds, overhanging routes, and also at the climbing gym for bouldering and lead, in order to see the pros and cons.Β The first impression when I tried Ozone was a very nice one. If you choose the right size or model (Ozone Plus it’s a bit wider, or Ozone Lady for Women) it’s easy to enjoy climbing even with a new pair of climbing shoes.

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Ozone Lady

The thing that I liked most about Ozone QC, was that I could wear them on hard routes immediately, comfortable right out of the box. My recommendation, same as the manufacturers, is to choose 0.5 a size bellow your street shoe size if you like it to be super tight but precise or same size as your normal shoes if you like it more comfortable during climbing, but still benefit from their performance.Compared to other climbing shoes that I had, the Ozone QC didn’t stretched too much, more likely they took the foot shape making them even more comfortable.Over time, I tried and used many models of climbing shoes, La Sportiva, Five Ten, Evolv, etc., and from the performance point of view, the Ozone QC is no less good. Same as other climbing shoes manufacturers on the market, Ocun uses Vibram XS Grip sole for Ozone QC, which is today the stickiest rubber for performance shoes.

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Ozone Plus

The 3-Force technology system is the Ocun innovation, and provides fixation of the forefoot. Also, the heel fits perfectly, without leaving empty spaces, so it makes it suitable for both bouldering and sport climbing. One aspect I felt that needs to be improved, especially when roof climbing where the toe hook it’s used often, it’s the lack of a bigger rubber on the upper side of the shoe. I think this could be a big plus and would make Oxone QC a perfect climbing shoe.

Maybe the new model Oxi is more suitable for overhang climbing, as they say that it’s a shoe fit for bouldering. I’ll see…

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Oxi

 

Overall, the Ozone QC it’s a competitive climbing show that provides performances, comfort, precision at a very good price quality ratio, and for me it became a must climbing shoe to use indoor/outdoor and I highly recommend it. However do not expect this shoe to turn you into Adam Ondra or Chris Sharma, no climbing shoe will not do that.

Enjoy climbing!!!

 

 

 

Discovering climbing around Athens

This post comes a bit later than planned. I guess we needed more time for the viewΒ to settle down into our minds and the “missing the crags” feeling, into our hearts.

The Greek climbing experience was way beyond our expectation.Β When you say Let’s go climbing in Greece!, the first place that pops, it’s Β either theΒ beautiful Island Kalymnos or theΒ immense blocks of conglomerate rock, Meteora, right? … Β So, when our friend Oana said:Β Come to Athens for climbing!!! ,Β we were kind of skeptical about it. She started sharing with us some more info, which pushed usΒ to do a littleΒ research on the internet, looking up to pictures with the crags and reading other climbers opinions about the best routes in the area and so on…We climbed together in Turkey and due to the fact that both Greece and Turkey are gifted with pumpy tufasΒ andΒ worthy to be united in a climbing combo trip,Β she could make aΒ comparisonΒ between the crags…she goes for Athens! πŸ˜€

We decided to give it a shot and went for one-week-low-budget-climbing-trip. Thank our little wise Oana for that! ❀ <<Cheering>> 

Climbing trips are always too short, no matter how much time you have. So having only one week to discover a new climbing area it demands some good time management.

Yeah, right! <<time management>>…maybe on paper! :))

The plan was to climb 3 days in a row, rest one, climb 3 days in a row, pack and say goodbye on the last day. Perfect! …But we were in Athens…:D Let’s say the Greeks relaxation it’s contagious, in the bestΒ way possible, so in the end we’ve climbed 5 days out of 8, checking out 4 different crags and going to the local climbing gym once. Overall it was OK. Even that the climbing days were short, we had enough time to check out the top crags and climb some of the best recommendedΒ routes, discover the area and leaving to grow in us the desire to come back.

On the first day we wentΒ toΒ Mavrosouvala, our favorite crag of the trip, beautiful yellow limestone.Β YEY! Β It is known for having the most hard routes in the area:Β 47 routes in total from which 24 between 8a and 8c+ and 4 projects, attracting attention of strong climbers like Chris Sharma and Steve McClure. The routes are steep, with tufas and pockets, up to 35 m high and most are already equipped with fixed quickdraws.

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Mavrosouvala

Recommended routes:Β Aides 8a – a true classic of Mavrosouvala, and if I’m not wrong, the only one without tufas. A bit scary for me in the upper part, the less stronger one in the family, but otherwise, my style! Crimps, long reaches, high feet and endurance…Tudor sent it! πŸ˜€

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Enjoying the Sun @ Mavrosouvala

They say that the best season is from March to May and September to December.Β We were lucky to catch the perfect sunny weather for climbing .Aprox. 40 min by car away from Athens and only 2 min walking from the car. Niiice, right? πŸ˜€

The second favorite crag was CHAOS, or Lavrio, as the local climbers name it, a huge crater in the ground, surrounded by yellow limestone. This amazing natural amphitheater was revealed when a cave collapsed and created a sinkhole measuring 55 meters in depth and 120 meters in diameter.Β It’s an image you can hardly forget, and the feeling when you get thereΒ is as if you reachedΒ a place untouched by humans..Β THATΒ AMAZING! ..and is half true, because the area is kind of protected, surrounded by a fence, andΒ the only people that enter are climbers….Breaking the law, breaking the law! :))

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Chaos

 

Approximately 20 routes, very different from other crags around Athens, with unique texture. A must try route isΒ Tremoulo 7c+,Β excellent lineΒ with the smallest, sharpest crimp right in the crux, from which I got a nasty split tip on my index finger…and no regrets, PAM PAM! :)) Β Also my style, a bit frustrating for my dude :*

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Tremoulo 7c+

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The crag it’s not that close to Athens, 1.30h – 2h by car, maybe the furthest where we’ve been, but even so, you’ll love it. Driving next toΒ the Sea for a few hoursΒ doesn’t seem thatΒ bad! πŸ˜€

 

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Chaos

Another crag,Β VRACHOKIPOS. Β – What I didn’t mentioned isΒ that Athens is gifted with approx. 32 crags, some of them easy to reach byΒ bus, with so many different climbing styles and texture. Our plan wasΒ to cover the top 5.

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On the way to Vrachokipos

Back to Vrachokipos…Also a super nice place to climb, wide open view with the Sea far far away on the horizon. We got there in the second part of the day whenΒ the crag was already in the sun and it felt a bit too warm for climbing.

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Vrachokipos

 

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Gefsi Asvestolithou 7c

The routes are mostly overhanging, tufas included, kind of bouldery monkey business, definitely Tudor’s style. Woop Woop! πŸ˜€ Β As grade, mostly 7c’s. The climbing day was short at this crag, butΒ we got some tan…We’ve climbed only Gefsi Asvestolithou, a nice bouldery Β 7c with all kinds of holds, tufas, jugs, crimps, pockets, knee bars, you name it! Maybe harder in the sun…Love to come back here!

The last crag was CHOUNI, a land mark of Athens sport climbing history as the hotspot of hard ascents during late 90’s. Prepare to leave some skin on the sharp grey limestone routes and to shout “Saaaa!”. Short and steep routes – max 20 m, usually bouldery.Β 32 routes in the range of 7a to 7c. The place is close to Athens with easy access from the car.

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Chouni

No 5 is MAGOULA, the missed crag. Next time! πŸ™‚

We also checked one of theΒ local climbing gym – OAKA Indoor Climbing – probably the best in Athens, thanks to the friendly people: Nikos, Zoi, Stefan (thanks again for sharing your climbing days with us, and the rides to the crags!), Leo – Hey, guys!!!Β and the good vibe found there, AND OF COURSE!!!Β our SuperΒ ZΓ’nΔƒΒ Oana for being the coolestΒ host EVER!!!  ❀ Β The gymΒ is inside the Olympic Athletic Center of Athens, which is quiteΒ impressive, so you can also explore the surroundings while you’re there.

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The outside climbing wall @ OAKA Indoor Climbig
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OAKA Indoor Climbing

On the rest days we did our tourist duty and discovered Athens by foot, seeingΒ the Acropolis,Β The Panathenaic Stadium, Syntagma Square, the Local Markets and the beach.Β The Greeks are coffee lovers, that’s for sure, and if you’re in Athens, please stop by at Coffee Island and order an Iced Frappe…pure perfection! Ha Ha Ha! πŸ˜€ and in the evening get something stronger like Rakomelo, after you enjoy eating at Mystic Pizza & Pasta, or a Souvlaki if you must πŸ˜‰

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Bottom line, the Greek experience was great and we want to go again and stay for a longer time and climb more. Having Oana there helped us a lot. Actually, she was the only reason we agreedΒ to go to Athens for climbing. Now we are happy that it happened and we can say that Athens is a perfect climbing spot for everyone.

Life has its own surprises and it can be unpredictable…SEE YOU SOON ATHENS!

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2015 – The year of Eat Sleep Climb Repeat

The 2015Β year lap is over and before the next one begins, and the new nice stories startΒ to emerge, we want to remember once more how we eat, slept, climbed and repeated this for the past months.Β For us, 2015Β is going to be a very difficult year to top, but we aim to try!

On 31st of Dec 2014 we were in the same place, more or less with the same friends, having the same great time and enjoying climbing as much as we do now. But a lot of things have happened since then. We’ve been to new places, experienced different cultures and climbed as much as we could.

Turkey played the biggest part in our climbing adventure. We came last year for two weeks during the Winter Holidays, went home andΒ on 6th ofΒ Β February ’15 I was back in Geyikbayri for the next two and a half month and Tudor joined me at the middle of March. Turkey is the one of the best spots for climbing in the winter period. The weather is warm, andΒ most of the crags are facingΒ south with over 600 routes. More info hereΒ . When we went back home Β it was already spring, and we could continue to climb outdoor because, as I wrote some time ago, Romania has some really amazing crags. Geyikbayiri it’s a nice place to be and climb for a long time and the local people are super friendly. We’re happy to be back πŸ™‚

Some little tips – πŸ™‚ –Β Living in Turkey is quite cheap and with some research you can getΒ accommodation and food for less than 400 euro/month. There are some nice camping sites like: JoSiTo, Climbers Garden or Rido CampΒ where you can rent a tent or more comfortable, a bungalow and the prices are ok. Β If you come in a larger group, of more than 4 persons let’s say, you can rent an apartment in Antalya (Konyaalti) , and it’s cheaper than staying in the camp. We rent from ReantaΒ several times and the conditions are great. In this case you need a car, but you can also rent it at a low price like 11 euro/day and you’re onlyΒ 15 min awayΒ from the crag. For food, every Sunday there is a local market that you can find on the way to the crag, from where you can buy vegetables and all the needed foodΒ at super low price.

 

After the Turkey trip, we came back to Romania and spent the summer in Cluj Napoca, anyway, being more at the crags than at home. It wasΒ aΒ  typicalΒ climbing day at Pestera Ungureasca when one of our friend, > Hi, Cosmin! < call TudorΒ and next thing we knew…We’re going to China!

China was our second memorable experience from 2015 and we would like to thank Cosmin for this. The main reason for which we went was a climbing competition:Β Β Plateau International Climbing Tournament 2015 – a two-day climbing competition forΒ lead and speed climbing, both for men and women –Β We were totally unprepared πŸ˜€Β But we didn’t realized it until after we got there and see the magnitudeΒ of the event.Β This year there were around 40 athletes competing, all from eleven countries and regions, including Romania. Best climbers in the world from Russia, Poland and China specially in the Speed category, but also for lead, Spain and Ukraine. We had fun, that much we can say! About this we will share more in another post, someday!…

In China we spent 8 days in total. After the comp we wanted to visit Beijing, so we kept 5 days to do that. What can we say, we are not tourist material…two days would have been enough, but who knew. We walked and walked for hours and visited all the important places. It was more like, eat, sleep, be a tourist, repeat. Way too hot for climbing outside near the city and theΒ bestΒ places were too far away, so we kept on being tourists for the rest of the time, so now we have some nice pics to share.Β πŸ˜€

If you want to visit China, go to Shanghai, many people told us that is better than Beijing. Travel byΒ subway, is cheaper and easy to use. For a better exposure to the Chinese culture, we recommend to leave the big cities and check the rural areas. The food is varied and tasty, but depends on everybody’s taste.

 

From China, straight to Bulgaria. After returning, we made a short stop inΒ Bucharest to pick up our friends Sergiu and Sonia πŸ™‚Β and drove to Bulgaria for some DWSΒ in Tyulenovo. The place is very close to our border,Β no further than 40-50 km.

Only the first day the sea let us climb a bit; after, the waves got bigger and bigger so we decided to move to the quiet beach at Shabla. Swimming and lazing on the beach, that’s the nextΒ thing we enjoy to do, after climbing :D. Close to Shabla you can find a musle farm in DalbokaΒ where you can eat deliciousΒ seafood. It’s a must!

On the way home, we stoped for 2 days in Vama Veche, but nothing is the same there, so moving on…

 

All this trips can be exhausting but even if it’s great to be home, outside is more fun. Baile Herculane, Suncuius, Pestera Ungureasca, Moroeni, Cheile Bicazului, Ampoita, Lita, Buces Vulcani, are the cragsΒ where we eat, climbed and repeated it for half of the year that just passed. Not bad! πŸ˜‰

2015 IT’S FULLY LOADED! HAPPY NEW CLIMBING YEAR!!!

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Goodbye indoor, hello outdoor !

During the last month we’ve competed to 4 climbing comps, both boulder and lead. Here are our results and some nice pics.
1. NuclearPowerPlant – Boulder I st place

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2. Vertical Step Maraton
Elena:
Boulder – VII
Lead – V
Overall – V

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Tudor:
Lead – III

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3. Galactic&ZuMont Lead Cup

ElenaΒ  – III

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Tudor – III

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4. Romania National Lead Competition
Elena – IV
Tudor – III

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Now that the climbing competitions are over for this year, it’s time for some Fun in the Sun πŸ˜€ . We are on the way to Turkey, for 3 awesome weeks of rock climbing in Geyikbayiri. Iey!!!

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